The Peg Trousers Tutorial

Tools & Materials

The Peg Trousers Pattern

2 metre – 2.25 metre of Fabric (140cm wide)

0.20 metre of lining fabric for pockets

0.10 – 1 metre of Fusible Interfacing

1 x Zipper (reference pattern for length)

1 x Trouser Hook & Bar

Thread

Cutting, Pleats & Darts

1. Start by folding your fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge.

2. Lay out and pin (or trace) pattern pieces according to your fabric width. Remember, the grain line is always parallel to the selvedge. Cut and notch accordingly.

3. Once you have your pieces cut out and notched, start with matching and ironing your pleats. Line the outer notches together while folding down the middle notch, sew a stitch down the creased folds on the wrong side roughly 10-15 centimetres. (I forgot to photographed this process so the photo in place, is what the pleats should look like from the good side).

4. Next, mark the back dart lines and sews. I like to run a needle and thread from the top to the bottom peice to ensure accuracy of the dart placement. 

Pockets

5. Match top pocket bag with front pocket facing, good side to good side. Stitch pocket in place with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press and serge or zig-zag the raw edges.

*Optional: Edge stitch on the top pocket bag for a cleaner finish. Remember to catch the seam allowance on the wrong side.

6. Align the bottom pocket bag and pocket bag facing. Stitch and finish the raw edges.

7. Now match the facing edge of the top pocket to the pocket opening of the trousers. Stitch, press, and serge the raw edges.

8. Align the bottom and top pocket bag together, matching the curve of the pocket. Stitch and finish the raw edges.

9. Baste the top of pocket bag to the front of the trousers to prevent it from moving around.

Waistband & Leg Cuffs

11. Match the waistband side seams, stitch and press. Matching the long sides together, fold the waistband in half and press.

12. Align top edges of trousers and waistband together, pin, and stitch in place.

13. Repeat step 12 for both leg cuffs before attaching to the hem.

Waistband & Cuffs: Sink Stitch Method (skip to step 18 for the easy method)

14. Press the seams upwards into the waistband. The goal is to hide the seams in between the waistband.

  • Press the unfinished outer edge of the waistband in towards the wrong side. This edge should be pressed approximately 2-3 mm less than the final seam allowance for this edge. For example, if the waistband seam allowance is 3⁄8″ (1 cm), this edge of the waistband should be pressed 7-8 mm.

15. Repeat step 15 for both leg cuffs.

16. Time to close off majority of the waistband & cuffs. The folded edge should be neatly pinned along the seam so that it covers the stitch line. Make sure to insert the pin directly into the ditch of the seam, securing the underside of the binding.

Pin from the right side of the garment for easier removal when you sew. Leave a gap about 6-8 cm wide in the waistband and leg cuffs so that you can feed the elastic through.

*Check that the pins have captured the folded binding edge on the underside of the garment.

17. Use the edge joining foot if you have one to complete the next step, it will make your life easier! A regular foot will work but will require more patience. Place the machine’s needle in the ditch of the seam. Sew slowly and pull the fabric lightly on either side of the needle as you guide it through the ditch. Remove the pins as you approach them. The finished stitch is invisible on the right side of your garment while capturing the inside folded edge.

Waistband & Cuffs: Easy Method

18. Time to close off majority of the waistband & cuffs. Fold the waistband in half so the raw edges line up with the other half of the waistband that is already attached to the trousers. Pin and sew in place leaving a small gap at the back, approximately 2″.

19. Repeat step 18 for both leg cuffs.

Elastic

20. Finally! Time to feed the elastic through the casing of the waistband and leg cuffs. Grab onto the safety pin while pushing excess fabric towards the opposite end of the gap, eventually exposing the elastic. Once pulled through, butt the ends of the elastic tight together,  zig-zag the raw edges to secure.

*Pro Tip: You are less likely to lose the elastic if you pin one end of it to the fabric!

21. Close off the gap using the ditch stitch or easy method for both waistband and cuffs before serging the raw edges.